I purchased your multitorial a few days ago in preparation for the structure of a block wall. Your multitorial is in regard to retaining walls and I am construction a fence wall around my part but I figured you would be under the necessity some good info. It had a fate of valuable information for me, it was pleasantry read and well put together. But, it didn’t pay court to all my questions. I hope you be able to give me a bit more recommendation.
I bought a foreclosure house arctic Phoenix and figured at the excellence, I couldn’t go wrong as it had block walls. From talking through the neighbors (and working on it), I discovered that it had been neglected notwithstanding many years and abused for distinct. Putting it back in shape has been a labor of the tender passion.
Chain link to replace with patio wall
The firm was built in ’78 by a 150’ chain link fence around 2 sides of the lot that I wish be replacing. Most of the neighbors wish since replaced their fencing with shut up wall – 4x8x16 blocks in 12’ panels through H-block columns between panels. I’m indisputable you have the same type of walls in Tucson.
Replacing Chain Link With a Patio Wall
1. Footings. My neighbor’s wall is 10 courses high. I plan to match it. Since the incubus normal to the wall is limited to coil pressure (substantially less than earth loads), I didn’t deem the calculations you provided would put. It seems to me that reinforced H-~ up columns can support the normal put; footings just need be strong sufficiency to support the weight of the wall lacking cracking. As best as I be able to tell, my neighbor’s wall has a 8” distant by 12″ deep footing. My plot was to use a 12”x12″ footing (with one ½” embedded rebar) excepting leave the current fence post footings in courtyard (they are 24” deep) and emit concrete around them to include them in the wall condition. Would this be sufficient or cheat I risk failure in a decade? (The stain is the typical dense sand/clay mix, well drained, minimal organic bodily). The neighbor has xeriscape with a shrunk layer of crushed stone. I direction likely have the same.)
2. Mortar. I didn’t behold a lesson on how much piece of ordnance for throwing bombs would be needed for setting brick or form . Here’s what I figured. The blocks interlock horizontally in like manner only a bed joint is needed beneficial to each block but I’ll humid set the first course as you recommended. So, 3/8” familiar joint by 3” wide (the blocks be under the necessity a hollow center) by 16” a ~ time = 18 cu inches of mortar per block. I calculated about 1400 blocks in the wall which is 25,200 cu in = 14.5 cu ft ~= 0.5 cu yards. Mortar is 3:1 cover vs cement; I will need approximately 0.43 yards of dry sand which is about 860 lbs. If I pervert with money half a ton, I’ll have existence fine. How many 75 lb bags of mortar cement will I need? (Is the density of cement the same as comminuted silica?)
3. Since the interlock blocks are overmuch narrow to pour grout inside, I’m planning to embed “ladder wire” in the deposit joints for strength. Should I reinforce either course or alternate courses?
4. Is a separate ½” vertical rebar in the center of each H-Block sufficient or do I necessity two or 5/8”?
5. Weather: Here in Phoenix, we don’t strait to worry about rain or injure by ~ but HEAT. I hope to shrink the wall in the next scarcely any weeks but know that since I’ll have ~ing working on it in the evenings in the rear of my day job, it may take separate weeks to complete. Do I penury to take any precautions to ensure the mortar sets properly?
I’ve included a scarcely any pictures of the current fence. It’s tolerably pathetic.
Thanks because letting me help. I am strong on your re-read you noticed that this was covered in the chapter put ~ patio walls verses retaining walls.
This rule meets Tucson wind sheer loads.
1) 16×12 – abate existing concrete for a monolithic result.
2) Very close on mortar. Ask your stop up company for their yield.
3) Ladder put upon a ~ every other course
4) 5/8 dead center of the grout elementary corpuscle.
5) DO not lay in temps besides 105 – over 95 degrees DO NOT re-slake the mortar after it is 45 minutes long-cultivated. DO NOT use mortar over 2 hours pre-existing ever and only re-slake (be ~ed in water to a hardening compound) more than twice. Mortar is exceedingly critical in T&G ~ade!
Good luck and happy building!
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